Reference 110.515 CHN Carrera | A gold-plated automatic chronograph wristwatch with date and bracelet, Circa 1974

When the new series of Carrera models arrived in 1974 with their so-called barrel case design it really bought the aesthetics of Heuer fully into the 1970s. With its sun ray brushed case that had been slimmed versus the 1153 and 1553 references of the previous generation, and the flat mineral crystal that offered improved scratch resistance versus the domed plexiglass of the prior models, it was clearly aimed at refining the design of one of the brands most iconic collection.

Offered with both the two-register calibre 12 and the calibre 15 with running seconds replacing the 12-hour counter, and blue or fume brown Geneva striped dials in the stainless steel case with pops of orange for the hands, the model already stood out from the crowd.

But the most eye-catching variant was the reference 110.515 CHN. With its gold-plated case retaining the sun ray brushing catching the light even more than the stainless-steel variants, and the oval black subsidiary on the gilt finished dial, it was clearly inspired by the legendary solid 18K gold reference 1158 CHN.

But of course, in plated form it was a fraction of the price and found its way into a much broader array of hands. As a result, many have survived in poor condition, with the plating fading, the case having been refinished and the dial marked by years of use. Furthermore, the bracelet shows their age over time, with the plating coming off from between the links, so to see an example in effectively new-old-stock condition is a real privilege and a way to understand the dramatic effect these watches must have had in period.

Where it is worn to emulate the greatest drivers, or to cosplay as Ryan Gosling’s Ken from the Barbie movie, who famously wore such a reference in the Oscar winning film, the 110.515 CHN is worth of closer inspection.